A new chapter begins for one of downtown Des Moines’ most storied addresses as The Empire prepares to open in the former Fong’s Pizza space on Fourth Street.
The Empire is a reimagined neighborhood bar and eatery that pays homage to the city’s rich past while offering a fresh, affordable dining experience.
The restaurant opens on Oct. 2 at 7 a.m. at 223 Fourth St. in Des Moines.
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A passion project rooted in Des Moines history
The revival of The Empire is the result of a collaboration between Don Short of West End Salvage, Ryan Ellsworth of Invision Architecture, and Dennis Epps of Full Court Press, with support from the ownership of the Elliott Apartments. Their shared passion for Des Moines history is evident in every detail of the renovation.
“We wanted to recreate The Empire to have the look and feel of a bar from 1905 with updates and improvements throughout the years,” Short said. During renovations, the team uncovered a hidden gem: the original tile flooring in the vestibule bearing the words “THE EMPIRE.”
“This project is a great way to bring the rich history of the Elliott Building and Fourth Street back to life,” said Ellsworth, who has spent years researching downtown Des Moines.
A storied location
The Empire’s location has seen many transformations over the decades. Originally part of the Elliott Hotel, the site housed the Empire Bar from April 1905 to July 1906. It later became the Elliott Buffet (1906–1926), Dixie BBQ (1929–1949), and the beloved King Ying Low, which opened in 1949 and operated until 2008. Fong’s Pizza then took over the space until its March move to Court Avenue.
Now, The Empire returns to Fourth Street — once known as “Hotel Row” — which today is home to eight apartment and condominium buildings.
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A neighborhood spot for all hours
“I’ve lived downtown for nearly two decades, and I’m so happy we’ll be the neighborhood coffee shop, lunch and dinner spot, and a great place to gather with friends and neighbors,” said Epps, who will serve as owner.
The Empire will offer quick counter-service meals and beverages, available for dine-in or takeout. The menu focuses on comfort food favorites priced between $5 and $11, including bierocks (soft bread rolls filled with ground beef, cabbage, and onions), Reubens, sloppy Joes, chicken salad sandwiches, hot beef sandwiches, chicken and noodles, and daily specials.
“We’re keeping it easy and inexpensive — hot meals at a fair price,” Epps said.
The beverage menu will feature cocktails and draft beers mostly priced between $4 and $6, with happy hour specials and the option to “Empire Size” your draft.
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Coffee legacy continues with Denise Diaz
The Empire also welcomes Denise Diaz, founder of Ritual Café, to lead its coffee program. Diaz began her coffee career on Fourth Street nearly 30 years ago at Java Joes, Des Moines’ first local coffee shop and roaster. She later ran Ritual Café in the Western Gateway for two decades until it closed in August.
Expect a full coffee menu including breakfast items and baked goods, house-made Empire iced coffee on tap, 20-ounce infused energy drinks, and signature Ritual Café favorites.
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Susan Stapleton is the entertainment editor and dining reporter at The Des Moines Register. Follow her on
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