An Underrated California Wine Region
Lodi, located in San Joaquin County, is often overlooked when it comes to California’s wine regions. While Napa and Sonoma dominate the spotlight, Lodi has its own unique charm and a surprising claim to fame: it is the most diverse grape-growing region in the country. With over 130 grape varieties, Lodi outshines both Napa and Sonoma, which each have around 60 varieties. This diversity is largely thanks to one unique block of land at Mokelumne Glen Vineyards.
A Unique Collection of Grapes
Mokelumne Glen Vineyards is home to 52 German and Austrian grape varieties that are rarely found in the U.S. These include Ehrenfelser, Albalonga, Rotgipfler, and Sirius, among others. Historically grown in cooler climates, these grapes seem like an unlikely choice for Lodi’s warm, Mediterranean environment. However, a few small and experimental winemakers are working with the vineyard to challenge this perception, helping to reshape Lodi’s image as a Zinfandel-centric region.
The Koth Family’s Vision
In 1962, Bob and Mary Lou Koth purchased the property along the Mokelumne River, initially planting a pear orchard and some vines of Zinfandel and Flame Tokay. Bob, an army veteran and teacher, didn’t plan on becoming a grape grower. However, after visiting his daughter in Germany and trying his first German Riesling, he became fascinated with the wines of the region.
In the late ’90s, Bob began grafting his existing vines to German grapes, starting with Riesling, Kerner, and Blaufränkisch. His son Brett recalls that many thought Bob was crazy, but he remained determined. The experimental block, known as the German Collection, is the only place in California where many of these varieties are grown.
Challenges and Success
The Koth family faced challenges in selling their wines in a market dominated by Zinfandel. In 2010, they closed their tasting room and decided to sell their grapes instead. Their first customer was Markus Niggli of Markus Wine Co., who sourced Kerner, Gewurztraminer, and Rieslaner for a Swiss blend called Nimmo. Niggli’s wines caught the attention of other winemakers, leading to increased interest in the Koths’ unique grapes.
Embracing the Unexpected
Lodi sommelier Randy Caparoso played a key role in saving the vineyard. Initially unimpressed with the wines, he later developed an appreciation for the Koth family’s venture. He introduced them to winemakers like Matthew Rorick and Craig Haarmeyer, who were drawn to the unique characteristics of the German Collection.
Haarmeyer, known for his work with esoteric varieties, planned to use all 52 grape varieties in his blend, making it one of the most unusual wines in California. He named the wine Victor Weisser and described it as “very lush, very giving,” with a distinct California character.
A Family Effort
Bob and Mary Lou Koth passed away in 2020 and 2021, leaving their children to manage the vineyard. Ann-Marie, Brett, and Phil Silver continue the family tradition, working together to maintain the vineyard. They have even created custom tools to make the process more efficient, such as a trimmer fashioned from a tractor attachment.
Growing Recognition
Mokelumne Glen now consistently sells its grapes to small-production winemakers across California. The Klinker Brick Winery produces a semi-sweet white blend from the vineyard that always sells out. Despite the demand, the Koths have had to turn people away, highlighting the growing interest in the unique grapes from Lodi.
A New Era for Lodi
With three decades of hindsight, Bob Koth’s vision seems less crazy. White wines are trending, while Zinfandel sales have declined. Lodi’s lower land prices and farming costs have sparked an era of experimentation, making it a hot spot for esoteric white grapes. Brett Koth notes that many are envious of the Koth family’s foresight.
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