After aharrowing winter of earthquakesThe situation prompted evacuations on four Greek islands, as the summer tourism period is about to reach its height. The islands of Santorini, Paros, Naxos, and Mykonos were evacuated, with schools closing in early February. Santorini, which is the most-visited among the four, has returned to normal and is welcoming tourists, although the number of visitors has been somewhat lower compared to the previous summer.
On a morning mentioned by the manager atVedema, a Luxury Collection Hotelas one of the hottest days this summer, I hurried down the edge of the volcanic crater to the coastal village of Vlichada to visit theTomato Industrial Museum. The timing was especially timely. After exploring the preserved industrial facilities of the old tomato canning factory, where the island’s famously sweet local tomatoes were once transformed into paste or canned whole, I settled in to watch a video. In the video, the island’s elders who had connections to the tomato factory share their memories.
The tomato factory served as a central gathering place for the community from its opening in 1945 until it shut down in 1981, when the company relocated its canning operations to the Greek mainland. I became particularly attentive when the people interviewed in the video began talking about the earthquake and tsunami that struck Santorini in 1956. This event was far more destructive than this year’s earthquakes, as it damaged several buildings on the island, yet it also brought some much-needed attention from the government to the struggling residents at the time. “It was the first time I tasted wheat bread,” one of the interviewees mentioned in the video. At that time, wheat wasn’t cultivated on the island, so the locals made their bread using barley flour.
A tasting bar is available at the factory, allowing guests to try some of the company’s tomato paste. “Many residents use this paste on bread for breakfast,” the staff member explained. I tried it with breadsticks and cheese, along with some pickled caper leaves (yes, the leaves are also edible), as we discussed tourism following the earthquakes.
Yes, it has dropped by 40,” she said sadly. “It’s been quite slow.
I observed the same thing when I arrived. The last time I flew to Santorini, in 2023, the airport was completely full, with visitors crowding both the arrival and departure areas. This year, it was much calmer: no long waits for car rentals, no traffic congestion (except for a few minor bottlenecks in the biggest town of Fira, which are always busy).
Vedema Resort, located in the village of Megalochori, was created to preserve the village’s essence, with its units spread throughout various renovated buildings. It also appeared peaceful. I was the sole guest sipping wine in their 400-year-old wine cellar one evening, and there were only a few other tables on their rooftop dining area for dinner. “Give the tomatoes a try,” I said to the nearby table. “They’re like candy.”
Outside the resort’s boundaries, in the village, it was also not crowded, even though small groups of cruise tourists occasionally passed through. A short walk up a hill (it’s always a hill on Santorini), I had a conversation with Argy Kakissis in the mulberry-shaded garden atSymposion Cultural Center, which she co-founded with her husband Yannis Pantazis. Both are Greek-American expatriates who have returned to Greece, and they welcome guests to the center for local wine, handcrafted traditional instruments, or a workshop on creating pan flutes, along with changing art displays or other musical and artistic installations.
We drank regional honey wine from clay mugs and appreciated the wind moving through the branches of the tree above. Kakissis hasn’t observed any decrease in visitors, but she also mentions that the majority of the center’s guests are specifically looking for it—it doesn’t rely on high numbers or constant movement.
As a different approach, I spent a night atIstoria Hotel, which received a Michelin Key. There are only 12 suites (my room was in a converted stable, featuring a beautiful courtyard and an outdoor hot tub). It appeared to be popular, especially near the pool (one of the biggest on the island). Santorini has a decent amount of beach, but most of the island’s towns are located on the hills, making it nice to have the black sand of Perivalos Beach just outside the door.
My last destination on the island was the renownedMystique, a member of the Luxury Collection, in the village of Oia. Known for its iconic postcard scenes featuring blue-domed structures, classic windmills, and vibrant sunsets, Oia is the island’s most consistently crowded village. There was clearly more hustle and bustle there compared to other areas of the island, with groups of tourists in white rushing to secure the perfect sunset view (and photo) every evening.
The strategies for dealing with the crowds remain in effect. There is a parking area offering a free shuttle to the well-known sea-level restaurants at Ammoudi Bay, where I enjoyed a memorable seafood pasta (and even more tomatoes!) along with beautiful sunset views.Ammoudi Fish TavernThe parking area was nearly full, but not completely, and the traffic was tolerable—not heavy with cars stuck in congestion as it was in 2023. In those days, someone might have ended up viewing the Oia sunset from their vehicle if they hadn’t made proper arrangements ahead of time—now, it’s simpler to locate a place.
I had visited Oia before—whether it was crowded or not—and I simply wanted to enjoy the scenery, so I spent most of my time in the infinity pool at Mystique (or in the jetted tub on the terrace of my suite, which was designed in the “cave” style of homes that have been popular on the island for a long time). Here, the tomatoes were served with fresh strawberries, whipped feta, and wild rose vinaigrette.
The reports of earthquakes this year definitely scared many locals, and several tourists apparently decided to cancel their trips. Although most hotel managers I spoke with admitted a decrease in business from May to July, they also mentioned that reservations seem fairly normal during the “busiest times” in September and October.
Withnew limitations on cruise travelon this and other Greek islands, along with the decline of the “revenge travel” trend, Santorini is expected to offer a rewarding experience for visitors over the next few seasons—provided they spend several days on the island and avoid the midday crowds by relaxing by their pool during the hottest hours.
