A New Life in Italy: Embracing the Egalitarian Wine Culture
David Mogford, a British man from Crickhowell in south-east Wales, is living out his retirement dream by running a wine estate in Italy. His journey began three years ago when he and his partner, Susan Taylor, moved to northern Italy to start a new chapter in their lives. Mogford had always been passionate about Italian food and wine, which inspired him to take on this new venture.
During his 22-year career in the steel industry, Mogford nurtured a deep love for Italian culture, particularly its culinary traditions. In 2023, after retiring, he and Susan purchased a wine farm in the Piedmont region, one of the world’s most renowned wine-producing areas. The couple expanded the property into a seven-hectare estate with four vineyards namedTenuta il Finale, located between the villages of Castagnole delle Lanze and Costigliole d’Asti.
They now live in an old, renovated farmhouse on the estate, where they focus on promoting regional grape varieties and regenerating old vine stocks. The winery features a vaulted cellar where they host tastings. Mogford has received positive feedback from both international and local visitors, and he hopes to contribute to changing the UK wine culture.
Mogford was struck by the significant differences between the drinking cultures of Britain and Italy. He noted that in Italy, wine is not consumed for the effect of the alcohol but rather to complement a meal. “I have drunk, tasted, and shared wines around the globe. The UK remains the heart of wine writing and reviews; in turn, an elite has been created,” he said.
He criticized sommeliers for adding to the mystique of wine and increasing restaurant profits by making customers feel inadequate in the decision-making process. Mogford believes that this approach promotes wines based on price, creating an image of exclusivity that is not justified.
In contrast, he feels that wine drinking in Italy is a daily ritual tied to good food consumption and generational ties, with a taste for wine cultivated at an early age. “A British arrival in Italy can see the stark differences and the cultural value and importance of these basic components, wine and food, to support the changes needed in the UK,” he said.
Mogford believes that the quality of fresh food in Italy and strong family ties have led to a more egalitarian wine culture, unlike in the UK. In Italy, people tend to drink in moderation with food during social and family gatherings. He notes that the UK has lost some of the purpose of wine as the family structure has broken down. He also feels that the lack of quality fresh food in Britain is part of the cause, leading to binge-drinking.
“Fish and chip shops or cafés where the all-day breakfast is provided alongside a cup of tea are not a wine story,” he said. He feels that in the UK, wine and dining out are associated with expense.
On the other hand, in Italy, where “all elements of a society treat something as a normal part of their lives, then there is no mystique and it does not become the preserve of only certain economic classes.”
For Mogford, his new life producing wine has been hugely fulfilling and a dream come true that has already landed his wines recognition in competitions. His wine has received a bronze award for his 2023 100 per cent Barbera red wine from Decanter and a bronze award for the Barbera from the International Wine and Spirit Competition.
“We focus only on Piedmont grape varieties as we want to be at the forefront of sustaining these vines and bringing even more global recognition,” he said.
Mogford said winemaking was deeply satisfying and he had “been fortunate in achieving product quality in a short space of time.” “I wanted to be part of producing a wine that would be of a quality that I would be proud and that our friends would appreciate,” he said.
However, he admitted that it was “not a route to riches.” He said that returns were comparatively modest compared with the substantial returns that his previous business generated. He added that winemaking had changed and enriched his perspective on life, being forced to adapt to uncontrollable events such as weather.
Discussing his and his partner’s experience moving to Italy, he said they had both been welcomed by the locals. “We have been extremely fortunate to be accepted so far within this community in Piedmont, even though we are British producers in one of the most historic wine regions of Italy,” he said.
