A Journey to the Heart of India
India was never on my travel list. I had heard stories from visitors about the challenges of navigating crowded cities, the constant noise, and the overwhelming traffic. The bustling bazaars, the poverty, and the inequality made the idea of visiting seem emotionally intense. Hygiene was another concern—especially the infamous “Delhi belly,” which kept me wary of trying local food and water.
However, when my daughter Lihi, a medical student soon to become a doctor, decided to spend her summer vacation in Rishikesh attending a yoga course in an ashram, it presented an opportunity. I decided to overcome my anxieties and travel to meet her after the course in New Delhi. This trip fulfilled a secret dream: to visit the Taj Mahal, a monument officially recognized as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, and a symbol of love, beauty, and timeless craftsmanship.
A connecting flight via Abu Dhabi brought me to India’s capital city, and the next morning, a private driver picked us up. Surrounded by a chaotic mix of cars, buses, auto-rickshaws, motorbikes, cycles, and endless bulls and cows, we headed south to the city of Agra.
After almost four hours on bumpy roads, the idea of visiting the Taj Mahal became realistic. The only fear was the September monsoon rain. And with no alternative, since the Taj Mahal is closed on Fridays, anxiety arose. Within the complex lies an active mosque, and on Fridays, access is reserved exclusively for local Muslims.
The moment we reached our hotel in Agra, thunderstorms broke out and heavy showers swept across the landscape, drumming on the lobby rooftop and turning the streets into rushing streams. An hour later, the rain stopped, and the sky cleared to a light cloud cover.
Within 20 minutes, we found ourselves at the gates of the Taj Mahal. To protect the monument from pollution, no vehicles are allowed within about 500 meters of the site, so a golf cart for a small fee was the perfect solution.
As we approached one of India’s most visited and protected monuments, entering became its own challenge. Fortunately, we had bought our tickets online in advance, avoiding the endless queues at the ticket office. Separate lines for men and women, as well as different queues for Indian and foreign visitors, awaited us. Bag checks and body scans at all entry gates were strict.
My favorite mint candies, classified as food, along with cigarettes, a travel book, and even mobile phone chargers, were all banned. We had to return and deposit them in a cloakroom.
Then we joined the stream of thousands of visitors, most of them local Indians, all with mobile phones out and cameras ready. Over the next two hours, melting in unbearable humidity, I experienced what was probably the most magical time of my life.
The Majesty of the Taj Mahal
When you first glimpse the Taj Mahal from the entrance archway, it doesn’t seem quite real. Even with the current dome’s restorations, the white marble seems to float above the gardens, glowing softly in the light. That first view is both humbling and breathtaking—a reminder that this is not just a monument, but a love letter carved in stone.
The Muslim emperor Shah Jahan built it in the 17th century in memory of his wife Mumtaz Mahal, who died giving birth to their 14th child. The symmetry of the gardens, the gentle reflections in the pools, and the delicate inlay work of semi-precious stones all speak of devotion and perfection, making every step we took feel like walking into a dream.
But standing there, I realized the Taj Mahal is more than history. It’s an emotion. It took over 20 years and thousands of artisans to complete, yet it remains timeless, its marble shifting shades with the sun, as if alive.
Observing it, I understood why millions come not only to admire its architecture but also to feel that quiet, universal truth I heard so much about: that love, when expressed fully, can outlast empires and time itself.
We didn’t miss the mausoleum inside. Here, the atmosphere shifts dramatically from the bright, sunlit exterior to a hushed, dimly lit sanctuary. The false tombs of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan lie beneath delicate marble dividers, while their actual graves rest in a plain, unadorned chamber directly below.
On our way out, my daughter and I debated: Is the Taj Mahal a must-see destination because of its reputation, or is it because it is so beautiful and impressive? The answer, we agreed, is both, and that’s probably the magic.
Beyond the Taj Mahal
The Taj Mahal’s reputation is so vast that many travelers worry it cannot live up to the myth. After all, it’s one of the most photographed places on earth, a fixture on every “bucket list,” and a name synonymous with romance and beauty. But standing there, we knew the reputation was not exaggerated.
We also made sure not to miss the second must-see monument in Agra: the fort. Walking through the red sandstone walls of Agra Fort feels like stepping into a living chapter of India’s history. Unlike the serene romance of the Taj Mahal, the fort radiates power and intrigue.
As we wandered its vast courtyards, we could almost hear the echoes of emperors, court whispers, and battle commands. From the balconies, we paused to take in the sweeping view of the Taj Mahal across the impressive Yamuna River. A bittersweet sight, knowing that Shah Jahan, who once ruled from here, spent his last years imprisoned in these very walls by his rebellious son, gazing at the monument he built for his wife.
Exploring its palaces, mosques, and hidden passages is both awe-inspiring and strangely intimate, like being let in on the secrets of his empire. A must-see.
Agra’s Hidden Gems
Data shows that the majority of Taj Mahal visitors are day-trippers from New Delhi. The new Yamuna Expressway has cut the Delhi-Agra drive to just three hours, making same-day trips extremely convenient. Dozens of Delhi-based operators market “Same-Day Taj Mahal Tour from Delhi” as their flagship product.
In contrast, far fewer promote overnight packages. Even academic case studies on Agra tourism note that limited local attractions and amenities often lead travelers to minimize time in the city.
Still, I decided to stay the night, curious about a different perspective. At the DoubleTree hotel, where we stayed, I spoke with general manager Rajani Nair-Deb, who was convinced day-trippers were making the wrong choice.
“Visiting the Taj Mahal is only part of the journey. Agra is famous for leather and ceramic goods at attractive prices, and the street food here is renowned across India. Since COVID, we’ve seen a clear trend toward more relaxed family travel. Our statistics show that three out of four guests now even stay for two nights,” she says.
I would definitely recommend the relaxed version. If you are planning to visit Agra and the Taj Mahal, don’t do it in a hurry. It’s a travel experience that deserves time and reflection.
A New Perspective on India
Visiting India shifted my perspective in unexpected ways. I was deeply moved by the warmth of its hospitality, felt most vividly in Agra. The phrase “Atithi Devo Bhava” (“the guest is god”) is clearly more than just a saying. It is a lived cultural value, expressed in gestures, attitudes, and genuine care. The atmosphere carries a different frequency, a unique energy, leaving me with a marvelous, almost uplifting feeling.
