When it comes to European wines, there’s a noticeable pattern in the choices people make. Bottles from France, Italy, and Spain often find their way into shopping baskets without much hesitation. This is the norm, but what about wines from countries like Georgia, Moldova, or Ukraine? These are rarely considered, even though they offer unique experiences.
There’s an initial curiosity—people might pause, squint at the label, or hold the bottle up to the light. But ultimately, the decision is made to move on, leaving these bottles untouched. It’s as if the mind says, “Not today.” However, this kind of casual dismissal misses out on something truly special. What if taking a chance leads to a delightful discovery?
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What’s putting people off?
One major factor is the difficulty in pronouncing grape names. Varieties such as Saperavi, Rkatsiteli, Feteascã Neagrã, Mavrud, and Kadarka don’t flow as easily as Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. This can be intimidating for some. Additionally, many of these wines are priced under £10, which may raise questions about their value. On the other hand, £8.49 can seem expensive to those who typically spend between £6 and £7. Why pay more for something that isn’t from a familiar region? Many are unwilling to take the risk.
Why you should give Eastern European wine a try
We’re willing to spend £6 or more on a coffee without a second thought. Why not spend a few pounds more on a wine from a different country? Some of the most intriguing bottles on the market come from Eastern Europe. These regions have been producing wine for centuries, sometimes even millennia, long before other parts of Europe began. Despite this rich history, they haven’t achieved the same level of popularity as Western European wines. This is a shame, as these wines offer great value and distinctive flavors.
Take Georgia, for example. This country claims to be the birthplace of wine, and it has the archaeological evidence to support that. Evidence shows that Georgians have been making wine for around 8,000 years, far earlier than other Europeans. The traditional Georgian method involves fermenting wine in large clay vessels called qvevri, which are buried underground. These pots allow the wine to ferment and mature at a stable temperature. This process is so culturally significant that UNESCO has recognized it as part of their Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Moldova, meanwhile, is one of the most underrated wine countries in Europe. Located between Romania and Ukraine, it has one of the highest vineyard densities in the world. It also has extensive networks of tunnels filled with wine bottles stretching miles beneath the earth.
Then there’s Ukraine. People often double-take when hearing it mentioned as a wine-producing country, especially given the current situation. Yet, Ukraine has a long tradition of winemaking, particularly along the Black Sea coastline where the climate is ideal for growing grapes. This tradition continues, even in the midst of conflict.
Vitalii Schmulevych, CEO of Bolgrad, the country’s largest wine producer, recently told The Telegraph that they refuse to be subdued, despite nightly missile attacks. The vineyards are equipped with shelters to protect workers from drone attacks, and Vitalii mentions that they go in “when it’s very, very loud.” He added, “We are just living and we try not to think about it. Because we need to show that nothing will change this position.”
My top picks…
With all that in mind, here are my recommendations for Georgian, Moldovan, and Ukrainian wines, available at your local Lidl supermarket.
Bediani Premium Saperavi, Georgia, £8.49, Lidl
Saperavi is pronounced ‘sap-air-ah-vee’. It’s a grape worth learning and loving. Beyond being my favorite red grape, it’s also known as a ‘teinturier grape’—red on the outside and inside. This wine comes from the Kakheti region of Georgia, where three-quarters of the country’s wine is produced. It has an inky pomegranate color, with ripe blackberry and black cherry notes, complemented by hints of dark chocolate, liquorice, and vanilla.
Salcuta Winemakers Way Feteascã Neagrã, Moldova, £8.49, Lidl
This bottle is a great introduction to the Feteascã Neagrã grape, pronounced ‘fate-ash-ka knee-agg-rah’. Think dried plum, damson, and high cacao-content chocolate, with a soft and mouth-filling texture. It’s produced in the Stefan Vodã region of Moldova, where the sun-drenched hills and rich chernozem soils provide exceptional conditions for grape-growing.
Bolgrad Select Saperavi, Ukraine, £8.49, Lidl
Bolgrad, founded in the 19th century, is Ukraine’s leading brand. It’s located near the Black Sea in the Odesa region. This wine has a deliciously plummy, prune, and liquorice character that will appeal to Malbec lovers. It also has a bit of spice, making it perfect for roast lamb once spring officially arrives.
Bolgrad Pinot Grigio, Ukraine, £8.49, Lidl
Pinot Grigio, but not as we know it. Forget the neutral-tasting, mass-produced versions at the lower end. This one offers blossomy, citrussy notes with a hint of tropical lychee. Aging on its lees for three months adds creamy complexity and texture, making it a lovely companion to a simple roast chicken.
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